The Epic Trek: Namche to Gokyo & Gokyo Ri Summit Day

Epic views of Everest (left) and Lhotse (right)

On paper, it didn’t look like day 6 would be all that tough.  We were heading from Namche Bazaar at 3440 meters to Phortse Tenga at 3680 meters, a net gain of "only" 240 meters.  The catch, however, was that we first had to trek up to Mong La at 3975 meters.  Ugh.  We set off early after a big breakfast and headed up and out of Namche.  The weather was about as perfect as we could ask for, and we were treated to spectacular views of Everest and Lhotse, again. =)  

The trail before turning left to reach Sanasa

We trekked slowly but steadily to the town of Sanasa, where we found one of the only two signs we would see along the 3 week trek.  Here, the trail split in two directions, one toward Gokyo (where we were headed first) and the other toward Tengboche and on to Everest Base Camp (where we would eventually go, but not via this route – we had plans to get across the famed Cho La Pass).  So, left we went, and up we went.  And up and up and up (there’s a theme here).

At Mong La (noodles & potatoes -- there's a theme here)

The path to Gokyo was a great way to get our trekking legs back into shape as it was essentially all uphill, but you are limited in how much you can walk each day due to the significant gains in altitude you make.  The standard advice is to not exceed more than about 300-400 meters net altitude gain in 24 hours or you may put yourself at higher risk for altitude sickness.  So, it wasn’t long before we fell into a comfortable trekking routine.  We would rise early with the sun, usually around 0600, and slowly extricate ourselves from our sleeping bags or lodge blankets (Matt was faster at this than me).  As we got higher and higher this became tougher and tougher as it got colder and colder.  We would pack up, have a huge breakfast, and set out for the day in brilliant sunshine.

Coming down into Phortse Tenga

Back to day 6 -- it was a few hours of pure, uninterrupted ascent after the fork in the path when we reached Mong La and stopped for lunch.  It was here that we met two of our great hiking companions along the trek, Cameron and his porter/guide, Ganesh.  They were heading along the same route we were, and we would follow each other for the next several days.  From Mong La to our stopping point for the day, Phortse Tenga, it was a delicious descent.  We ended up staying in the same lodge as Cameron and Ganesh (the "River Resort," one of the only 3 lodges in Phortse Tenga), and spent the afternoon doing what one does on the trail – drinking tea, trying to stay warm, and getting to know one another.  Phortse Tenga would also mark the last time for many, many days that we would see toilets that flush, though at the time we didn’t know this and several days later we would think back fondly of that warmer, t-shirt wearing, normally-plumbed, below 4000 meter time.  =)

On the way to Dole

The next day (day 7) we spent the morning trekking from Phortse Tenga to Dole at 4090 meters.  We felt pretty spry, but our gain in altitude relegated us to a tough afternoon of lunch, tea, sitting around in the sunshine and taking a nap (occasionally, trekking really is tiring).  Late in the afterno0n, we heard more hikers arriving in the lodge, and to our surprise, it was our Tanzanian friends Steve & his sons that we had met briefly in a grocery store in Namche.  The trekking world up here really was a small one.  =)  

A tough afternoon of tea at Dole with our friend Cameron

Steve, his sons & Ganesh with Matt around the stove

We passed the evening catching up and trading stories around the yak poop stoves (we were now high enough i.e. it was cold enough that in the evenings the lodges would light the big cast iron stoves in the common area/dining room).  At this altitude, the options for heating were limited.  There were no trees to cut down (and there are efforts in place to prevent any further deforestation further downhill) and power was limited to solar or gas (and the gas canisters need to be hauled up from Lukla by porters or yaks), so it is a "use what you’ve got" philosophy.  There are plenty of yaks and oxen, and their droppings are an essentially renewable resource.  Hence, the yak poop stoves for heat in the evenings.  Fortunately, there was no powerful aroma associated with this practice.
 

Along the trail from Dole to Machhermo

Day 8 took us from Dole up to Machhermo at 4410 meters.  It was on this morning trek that we really felt the altitude kicking in and the air getting colder.  The landscape also began to change.  We no longer had trees to keep us company (or to shield us from the winds).  In their place were colorful shrubs and little violet flowers, and from a Himalayan peak perspective, things were only getting better.  That afternoon we visited the Machhermo Porter Rescue Post for their free talk on altitude sickness.  It was very informative and great to meet some more trekkers and the few physicians that staffed the post.  They also provide free refuge to porters who need a place to stay along the way.   
 

Yaks hanging out in front of our lodge in Machhermo

The changing landscape as we approached the Gokyo lakes

On day 9 we headed out from Machhermo to one of our key destinations, Gokyo.  We also began to approach the Ngojumba Glacier, the longest glacier in the Himalayas at 36 kilometers.  It would be our hiking companion in one way or another over the next couple of days.  The clouds began to roll in and the landscape became more and more barren.  After a few hours of tramping along the rocky path, we crossed a few rickety bridges and met our first beautiful turquoise glacial lake.  

Looking back on the mist over lake 2

For a few minutes, the trail was littered with stone cairns as the clouds and fog descended further – it made for such a beautiful and eerie memory.  At the second of the Gokyo lakes, we were treated to a sighting of the famed Gokyo ducks, a family of Brahminy ducks that are known to inhabit the lake.  As the rain started to fall and the wind picked up, we thankfully came to the third Gokyo lake (there are a total of 6) and the town of Gokyo itself at 4990 meters.  What a welcome sight it was as we were out of breath, out of warmth, and super hungry.  

The beautiful (and sometimes loud) Ngojumba Glacier

We got settled in the lodge and I tucked into some delicious spaghetti, after which I enjoyed my first shower since Namche, a $5 treat that was well worth it as the water was hot, hot, hot.  We spent the afternoon hanging out with Cameron and Ganesh, and met two wonderful folks that split their time between the US and Bali, Dennis and Felice.  It was early to bed that night in preparation for our "summit day" in the morning.

The horizon around 0515-0530 on summit day  =)

Out of breath but almost at the top!

Matt awoke at 0315 to check the weather.  It wasn’t snowing or raining and the stars were out, so we quickly geared up, donned the headlamps, and departed through the quiet village around 0345.  We could see an intermittent line of headlamps in front of us and together we formed a dimly lit snake halfway up the side of Gokyo Ri.  They say it’s only a 2 kilometer march up the side of this thing, but because of the altitude it usually takes 2 to 2 1/2 hours to get to the top.  We crossed the edge of the river and began to ascend.  

Prayer flags on the summit

After a bit, we found we could see well enough without the lamps, so we switched them off and trudged along in relative darkness as our eyes adjusted.  It was incredibly beautiful, incredibly brutal, and incredibly slow going.  The horizon began to brighten around 0500 and the giant peaks around us came into view.  It was a view unlike anything I have ever seen, and the weather was cooperating that morning for us.  Rock cairns came into view next, and then the mass of prayer flags marking the summit.  They did not look that far away, but it took us over 30 minutes to reach them.  

Part of the summit view

At last, around 0630 as the sun was illuminating Mt. Everest from behind, we reached the summit of Gokyo Ri at 5,360 meters (that’s over 17, 570 feet!).  It was out of this world.  One can see 4 of the 8 highest peaks in the world in a stunning 360 degree panorama from this summit, and it was even better than I thought it could be.  The brilliant white of the famous 8000+ meter peaks of Cho Oyo, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu pierced the horizon.  The sky was clear, the weather calm, and the lack of oxygen probably made it even more surreal.  =)  At this altitude, the air contains only about 50% of the oxygen that is present at sea level, so the view literally took our breath away.  We also finally noticed that we were covered in frost.  =)

Click on the video above for a peek into our summit experience!

Goofing around on the summit =)

Hanging out with Everest =)

Epic views of tiny Gokyo, Ngojumba Glacier, the lakes & the mighty Himalayas

Views from the sweet descent  =)

We stayed at the top for over an hour taking photos, watching the light and color of the peaks change as the sun rose, and sharing in the camaraderie that instantly forms with those around you who are undergoing the same unparalleled experience.  We also thoroughly enjoyed our celebratory Tang and Snickers (though they were a little frozen by the time we got around to eating them at the top).  =)  

Brilliant white of Cho Oyu (left, 8201 meters) just after descending

The town of Gokyo looked like the tiniest of hamlets from this vantage point.  As the sun ascended, the Gokyo lakes began to sparkle and take on a unique shade of turquoise blue.  I think I took the same picture roughly 15 times over the course of that hour on the top as every time I looked down, the color blue that the lake was 5 minutes ago had morphed into something even more breathtaking.  

Happy to be back down to good 'ole 4990 meters =)

After we had taken it all in, we began the knee-crunching descent.  It was a perfect morning for trekking and the views all the way down were spectacular.  We took our time, but didn’t dawdle, as an enormous hot breakfast awaited us back at the lodge.  The rest of summit day would be spent regaling tales of the climb and the views, and relaxing in the sunshine.  Truly a day to remember forever.

Click below for more pictoral trekking tales!  =)