Ah, Paris...

Our street in Paris (on the left)

Paris.  What can I say.  It is one of my favorite places in the world for so very many reasons.  Both Matt and I have been there several times (and we know how lucky we are!), so when we visit now, the pressure is off to do all of the major "touristy" (though incredibly worthwhile!) things and attractions.  

Gotta have an Eiffel shot =)

I have been down the Seine a couple of times by boat, we've both been through the Louvre and Musee D'Orsay, we've been up the Eiffel Tower and have both seen the Arc de Triomphe and Sacre Coeur.  Now, we feel like we can just be in Paris (though we still have to wander to the Eiffel every time.)  =)

The last time we were in Paris about 4 years ago, we made it a culinary adventure (and oh, was it fun!)  This time around, we had to be a bit more economical, but we knew we wanted that same Paris magic that comes from strolling along the Seine and having two carafes of wine for lunch.  So, we tried our hand at renting an apartment, and it was perfect.  Hot, but perfect.  =)  I have been to Paris during the spring, summer, fall and winter, and should have known to expect the heat.  Six stories up with no fan or air conditioning, heat (and plenty of charm that should not be overlooked) was what we got.

I loved our little place, and after camping and moving around a lot, we were ready to stand still for a few nights.  Our first night in, we made some pasta and it was all that I thought it could be and more.  =)  We wandered around the neighborhood, bought all of our groceries at the corresponding shops (veggies from the veggie guy, bread from the boulangerie, etc.)  It was my idea of heaven. 


We caught up on laundry and e-mails, booked some onward travels (a never-ending task I might add), and just pretended that we lived in Paris.  Every morning, I would walk down to the neighborhood boulangerie and buy our breakfast -- consisting of the most amazing flaky but doughy croissants, a pain-au-choclat to share and 2 coffees.  By the end of our stay, the owner recognized me and I had exact change for her.  =)

We found a great market and stocked up on things for a fantastic late lunch one day -- fresh veggies, cheese, and amazing fish.  I had forgotten how much fun a morning market can be -- I talked with one of the sausage/cured meats makers for a good 10 minutes about the various types of products he had on offer and his thoughts on which one would be best for us during our time in Paris.  (Ironically, things I would never have had the guts to do while I was actually living in France during college!)

At Laduree picking out macaroons

As it happened, my birthday was during our time in Paris (not exactly intentionally planned, but a nice piece of serendipity nonetheless).  =)  I took myself for a pedicure (things were in pretty bad shape after so much camping) and then we spent the afternoon taste testings the world's best macaroons.  It was not a bad way to spend the day.  

Back at the apartment for the sampling =)

We had read about two different "best" macaroons in Paris, and figured the only way to decide which one was, indeed, the best, was to do some side-by-side tasting.  It really is a tough call to make, but I think if pressed, I would lean toward Laduree.  I would encourage you to taste test for yourself though, as they are both (along with all the rest of the macaroons in Paris) completely wonderful.

Later that night, we went on a mission for a seafood tower.  Matt had one years ago when he came to visit me in Caen when I was studying abroad in college, and I had one the last time we were in Paris.  We were both anxious for another one.  We had read about the legendary Le Dome in Montparnasse, so headed there.  Unfortunately, Google did not tell us about the summer timetable and it was closed (this, after a long and sweaty metro ride to the other side of the city.)  

No matter, across the street was La Rotunde -- equally delicious and a place that we had had a midnight coffee before on a previous trip and had already grown to love.  In we went, and we were treated to an awesome meal.  Escargot followed by the seafood plate.  Just awesome.  

We spent the whole evening there -- wine, coffee, pastis for Matt, and then headed back to the apartment to polish off the remainder of the macaroons.  Truly a magnificent birthday.

La Rotonde, late at night after dinner =)

Matt in the lower chapel at Sainte-Chapelle

In the couple of days that followed, we just wandered around Paris.  We saw the Bastille (which neither of us had been to before) and I took Matt to Sainte-Chapelle, a truly magnificent church when the sun is shining.  It's filled with stained glass windows (in the process of being restored), and it simply radiates on the inside when the sun filters in.  It's a 13th century place and loaded with history -- it used to house Christ's Crown of Thorns.  The church is actually 2 chapels, one on top of other.  Definitely worth the return visit for me!

In the upper chapel at Sainte-Chapelle with the sun coming in!

View of Matt from my umbrella in the storm =)

Another highlight was getting caught in a thunderstorm on one of our walks.  It had been in the upper 90's, so it was about time the weather broke (if only for a few hours).  We had our umbrellas, and getting wet actually felt great.  It was so fun to walk in the rain for awhile.  

We headed toward the Eiffel and found one of our favorite restaurants, Cafe Constant.  Given the circumstances (and that the roads were now flooding around us!), we thought we would treat ourselves to a glass of wine and some delicious food.  It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon waiting out the storm.  =)  Matt has always regretted not having the pigeon the last time we were at Cafe Constant, and sadly, he'll have to wait some more as it wasn't on the menu for that day.  =)

Matt getting some work done in Bagnolet

After 4 days, we moved from our rented Paris apartment to a very close Paris suburb courtesy of a great Pittsburgh friend who hooked us up with his aunt and uncle.  They were kind enough to let us crash in their place while they were in the south of France on holiday.  It was absolutely perfect!  

We did some laundry, went to work on some planning, I tried out some French yoga (didn't embarrass myself too much) and we continued to utilize the fabulous Paris public transit system -- the metro.  It is by far my favorite way to get around Paris -- reasonable cheap, fast and there are stops everywhere.

All in all, it was a perfect Paris experience.  I would recommend this city to anyone.  It was definitely sad to leave, but not so bad because I know we'll be back (my standing rule is a trip to Paris every 3-4 years.)  =)  We packed up our things, boarded the train for Germany, and waved goodbye to my favorite city!  Onward!

See below for more great pics of our time in Paris!