The Slow Boat to Mandalay

The slow boat from Bagan to Mandalay along the murky Irrawaddy River turned out to be an experiential diamond in the rough.  We had heard about the journey from  a few different sources.  There was the "fast tourist boat" that would make the trip in about 8 hours in a large covered speedboat of sorts.  Then there was the "slow boat" or local ferry, which took anywhere from 1 to 2 days, depending upon the depth of the river, speed of the current, how many cargo stops there would be along the way.  We were told that the ferry would stop for the night in one of the local villages along the river and we could rent a room there.  As we didn't have a very firm schedule, we signed up for the local ferry, eager to see more of the countryside and rural areas of Myanmar.  

A moonlit local boat on the Irrawaddy before we embarked

Getting settled on the chairs

The fire coming to life in the little kitchen

We arrived at the ferry dock in the chilly early morning hours and carefully stepped over the many sleeping local folks on the ferry deck.  Our trishaw driver helped us find our way (we actually had to walk through one boat to get to ours…) and took down a couple of dusty pastel colored plastic chairs for us saying "for you, for tourist" with a big smile on his face.  A kind gesture indeed as this was the kind of ferry that had 2 decks, the one down below filled with cargo and a few men and the one up top with a hardwood planked floor and thick plastic tarps for a roof.  It was not the kind of place one found soft chairs, benches or numbers on assigned seats.  It was incredibly rustic, and surprisingly charming.  

Just before sunrise on the Irrawaddy

Coffee and the pink & cream Thai beach towel; chatting with the other women

After the great "change, change" exchange   =)

Shortly after settling ourselves into our chairs, our home for the next 36 hours came to life.  The engines started and a fire was lit in the kitchen area on our deck.  We slowly pulled away from the riverbank just before sunrise, the water in the kitchen beginning to boil for hot tea and coffee (of which I eagerly partook.)  We soon discovered that sitting by the railings was quite chilly, and moved closer to the inside of the deck, making a little windbreak with our bags.  We took out our fluffy beach towels from Thailand and made a little nest.  After the sun came up, a few of the local women became curious about our "blankets."  We had already been approached by some of them asking if we wanted to buy the blankets they had for sale, and we had gently declined.  We had learned early on in our travels that you just couldn't buy everything from everyone, as you would quickly deplete your budget (and have to ship a bunch of stuff back home).

However, a couple of these women seemed particularly interested in us (and our beach towels).  After a few attempts, we finally gathered what they meant by "change, change."  They wanted to trade!  They had not seen our type of "blanket" before and wanted one to take home to their families.  So, we passed a pleasant morning trading – our two beach towels from Thailand, 5,000 kyat (5 USD) and a coffee for fun in exchange for two of their village blankets.  We learned that they were part or a village cooperative of sorts.  Each group of women took turns every couple of weeks boarding the ferry and selling what they could to the other locals and the few tourists to help support their families.  They were eager to learn about our lives, and eager to speak with us in general.  They stated outright that even just last year, they could not talk to tourists without fear -- fear that somehow it could be misconstrued by informers of the government.  It was eye opening for us, and I had a deep respect for their bravery and smiles despite the obvious oppression they had suffered (and still suffer I'm sure).  Later that morning, they stepped off the ferry in their village, waved back and as they entered the village we could see them showing off their newly acquired beach towels.  It still makes me smile.  

First village stop

Loading & unloading

Delicious boat fare

Matt on the deck with the others

More loading & unloading later the 1st day

The ferry slowly continued on, stopping every couple of hours along the riverbank.  During these stops, sometimes in a village and sometimes on a seemingly random section of the sandy embankment, giant planks would be hoisted either from the ferry or from the side of the river and large teams of men would transfer goods both to and from the ferry.  Occasionally this would take 30 minutes, sometimes over an hour.  It was fascinating to watch (and be watched, as we were still a rarity in these parts of Myanmar).  

Along the Irrawaddy

A riverbank stop

Some local boats

Sunset along the Irrawaddy, 2 local farmers in the distance

As the day turned to dusk and the sun sank slowly below the flat, magnificently glowing horizon, the speed of the ferry decreased until we moored at a calm section of riverbank.  No village, just a little shack could be spotted.  It wasn't long before we realized that we had indeed stopped for the night, and there would be no chance of a warm bed indoors.  Thankful for the blankets acquired earlier in the day, we got out our sleeping bag liners, some extra layers, used the plastic chairs for a windbreak and settled in for a night on the ferry alongside everyone else.  Shortly thereafter, the generator for the lights on the boat stopped and we were left in complete silence and darkness.  It was magical.  The faint lights from a temple glimmered in the distance on the opposite bank and the waves ever so gently lapped the hull of the boat.  The air was fresh and cold around us, but we were warm enough in our deck cocoon.  I wouldn't say that we slept well, but neither would I say that it was unpleasant.  Indeed, both the night and the morning were eerily beautiful, and we were both infinitely thankful that we had chosen the slow boat.  

Sunset just before stopping for the night along the bank

Early AM moon-set from our "bed" on the deck =)

Stunning sunrise (a nice reward for the chilly night!)

We were some of the first to awaken, and the mist was rising from the dimly lit Irrawaddy River.  Soon, more bodies began to stir, and the fire was lit again for the morning coffee and tea (much needed after such a chilly night!).  After 24 hours on the ferry, we had already settled into a comfortable routine.  In many ways, it was relieving to have nowhere to go and really nothing to do other than slowly watch the landscape pass by.  We saw monks leaving the beautiful temples that intermittently studded the riverbank, farmers working in the dusty fields, children playing, and the workings of daily life proceeding along this river.  

Monks in the morning

Catching a mid-morning nap =)

Yes, that's a cow in a boat...

Local breakfast =)

From the women cooking in the kitchen, we bought delicious bowls of simple fare.  We had to insist on getting the "local" accompaniments such as spicy fish sauce and the like, and to their delight (and ours) it made them burst out in large smiles.  They had a short menu printed in English of basic food but we mostly used the "point to what everyone else was eating" method, which hasn't failed us yet.  We did, however, notice that they used the river water to wash everything, so we wisely chose the cooked items and silently prayed that if we fell ill it wouldn't be until we were in our hotel room in Mandalay with an actual toilet.  Thankfully, our stomachs were fine, and we enjoyed every morsel of their cooking.  

Getting closer to Mandalay!

Amazing temples just outside Mandalay

More great sights!

Almost there!

Front row seats on a great adventure =)

Ice cream reward after arriving in Mandalay

As we slowly approached the outskirts of Mandalay much later that afternoon, temples filled the hillsides and signs of bridges and increased boat traffic appeared.  Just shy of 36 hours after we boarded the ferry, we were deposited on the riverbank at the dock in Mandalay where we waved goodbye to another grand adventure.  We hopped in a truck bed with a couple of others and headed into the throngs of people that populated the enchanted metropolis of Mandalay.  If you are ever given a chance to take the slow boat to anywhere, don't hesitate.  It will always reward you if you're simply willing to sit on the floor for a day or two.  Who knew that spending the night sleeping on the outdoor deck of a ferry could be so memorable?!

Click below for more slow boat adventure pics!  =)

The Plains of Bagan

 

Just a few of the many, many temples that scatter the plains of Bagan

There is perhaps no better way to arrive in a foreign land than by trotting to your hotel at 5:30 in the morning in the bed of a horse-drawn carriage with only the crisp morning dawn air surrounding you.  We had arrived in the much-anticipated plains of Bagan via overnight bus, and we hadn't really slept all that much.  The sleepy surrounds only fueled the dreamlike state we were both in.  In retrospect, we overpaid for our cart ride, but in truth, when the bus dropped us off, we didn't actually know where we were – Bagan is really more of a small region, comprised of three villages.  We had made hotel reservations (the old school way, no less, by telephone), so we had a place to stay, we just had to figure out how to get there.  Tourists aren't uncommon in Bagan these days, but we're still relatively few and new to the area, so we stick out.  The cart driver knew our hotel, so off we went.  

Matt cycling his way out of the village of Nyaung-U

The lovely little dirt roads around Bagan

Wonderful light in one of the temples

An upgraded bike on the 2nd day=)

After a few hours of non-bumpy sleep we set out to find some lunch, landing in a wonderful little local joint.  Bellies full, the next task was finding some bikes for exploring the area.  We grabbed a couple of (mostly) functional sets of wheels from the hotel and headed out into the hot afternoon for our first taste of the magnificent temple-filled plains of Bagan.  The fairy tale continued as we headed out of town onto the dirt paths that connected the hundreds and hundreds of temples that were nearly a thousand years old.  At the height of power in this area, there were as many as 10,000 temples that dotted these rolling hills.  Over 2,000 remain today, so you can imagine the awe that this area inspires.  

One of the many Buddhas

Simply stunning sunsets

A temple for ourselves all evening -- doesn't get any better!

A local woman amongst the temples

We spent the next 3 days getting lost, climbing into and up over ruins and temples, getting dusty and dirty and loving every minute of it.  A few of the larger temples see more tourists, but the vast majority sit quietly amongst the long blades of dry grass and local fields.  It was an unbelievable treat to be more or less alone in this truly remarkable landscape.  Occasionally we would pass locals in their oxen or steer-drawn carts, or folks working in their fields, but mostly it felt like we were the only two humans in this dream-scape.
  

Waiting for the sun to come up on day 3 in Bagan

A cart heading out for the day just after sunrise

Matt working on a shot

Awesome architecture

Beautiful interiors

Up on a temple with the tripod=)

Burmese script

The temples were filled with ancient Buddha statues, Burmese Buddhist script and the remains of frescoes and inscriptions along the walls.  It was incredibly peaceful, beautiful, and personal.  Our evenings were spent watching the sun set behind the spires of the temples, then furiously cycling our way back to the village before the light disappeared as electricity was intermittent or non-existent.  When it darkened, we would wear our headlamps to make our way around and out to dinner, where we found a rare café that served Myanmar beer in ice cold mugs, a real treat after a hot and dusty day.  The beer was accompanied by delicious Burmese dishes and each night we retired happy and satisfied to be in such an amazing place.
  

Myanmar beer and delightful food

Work in the fields of Bagan

Love the interiors!

Deserted temples

Pondering the fairy tale

Tired, but happy after cycling out in the dark to catch this sunrise!  =)

The temples and plains of Bagan still feel a bit like a dream or fairy tale.  But like all good stories, this chapter needed to close in order for a new one to begin.  Before we knew it, we had made plans to try the local "slow boat" up to Mandalay.  Our trishaw driver arrived early in the morning in the total silence of the village, we fastened our bags on and squeezed ourselves into the two little seats and he slowly pedaled along the deserted road to the river as that beautiful misty air surrounded us once again.  We quietly boarded the still boat, carefully stepping over the sleeping locals and found a spot near the back.  It wasn't long before someone started the fire in the kitchen area and water began boiling for hot tea and coffee.  As the boat roared to life in the dawn, it was time for another adventure in this truly magical land.

Click below for more spectacular views of Bagan!